· Thursday, 31 August 2006

The Circus is in Town!

If I press my left cheek against the left side of the living room window, I can see the bright red and yellow circus tent that went up yesterday afternoon! The regulars sitting at the outside tables at the local store almost have a ringside seat! I can almost smell the canvas!

We have tickets for the Sunday evening performance of the Bim-Bom Circus from Simferopol.

I especially like the wild animal acts – I hope there are big cats and elephants!

· Tuesday, 29 August 2006

0930: The confused parakeets are roosting…

Outside it is as dark as night. Thunder rolls in the distance and a gentle rain is spilling down, splashing on the pavement; reminding me that summer is behind us now.

On the official Ukrainian calendar, Fall begins effective 1 September. Americans hold out until late September, when the moon and stars and the sun all signal a change.

The rain is pounding down now!

0945: The storm abates, the power is off…

The rain has slowed. Cat-Woman is out doing inventory of the courtyard cat population. Two men rollup their pant legs to their knees, tote their shoes, and wade through the brown river that was a paved street just a short time ago.

The curbs that define the street are underwater. My flat now looks out on a brown rapids, raging down to the sea.

The storm, at its height, was a symphony of percussion.

1000: Thunder plays a solo with rain playing harmony…

It is mid-morning, but I sit here in the dark. My laptop battery is good for only an hour and a half. It provides a warm glow, in an otherwise dark room.

With no power and trapped indoors by the steady rain, the day ahead may seem long. Mark has class after his day at the library, so he will not be home until after 1900, maybe later.

· Monday, 28 August 2006

Ukraine is 15 now and a typical teenager I guess. There is a stubborn, recklessness about the teen years and this adolescent country shares the symptoms.

Ukraine has moved forward and handled many major challenges, but the top three still loom large and hinder success: ubiquitous corruption; business monopolies and a ridiculous, pointless bureaucracy keep this country down.

Of course we are outsiders here, but even so, we experience the effects. We witness things, we hear the stories, we see it in the faces of the people and in the way they interact and make decisions.

I cannot say we have truly “walked a mile in their shoes”, but during these 27 months of Peace Corps we have had and will have time to observe and learn.

· Sunday, 27 August 2006

Visiting a Fortress by the Sea…

Despite our challenges at the train station on Friday, our day ended happily. We met one of our English Club members in the late afternoon for a hike around Yeni Kale. J. is a delightful young student of economics who is eager to practice her English skills. She is also quite enterprising. She suggested this excursion because she loves history and wanted to share her favorite site with us.

The frustrations of the day fell away when we reached the old fortress and climbed to the walls over looking the Kerch Strait. The Sea of Azov and the Black Sea below glistened under the late afternoon sun. Russia, just 4 kilometers away looked close enough to reach out and touch. We scrambled around like mountain goats, listening to our young guide spill out facts about this deserted Turkish fortress.

The fortress is situated only a few meters from the sea. While most of it is in a sad state of ruins, anyone with imagination and a sense of theater can people the hillside with soldiers and drama. J. came here to celebrate her birthday a few weeks ago. She would like to don Turkish garb and have her portrait made posed on the turret of this wonderful fortress.

After our tour, we walked along the railroad tracks by the sea toward the setting sun and then my tour guide lead us down a steep, hidden path to a hidden beach. We stood talking, the sea lapping at our feet.

By the time I arrived home, the sun was long gone. All the cares of the day, the challenges of the week, had dropped away.

Yeni Kale, the Turkish fortress in Kerch, Crimea!

· Saturday, 26 August 2006

Yesterday morning we attempted to buy train tickets for our vacation. Usually the best way to get tickets is to go to the station about two weeks early. Then, stand in line for an hour or two until you can finally speak to a bureaucrat trapped inside a tiny booth behind a Plexiglas window with poor acoustics. You have to yell to be heard, so everyone in the station knows your travel plans and also has a chance to comment on your grammar and pronunciation.

After a long wait in line, Mark negotiates with the clerk. I stand across he room and observe hand gestures. She is sending him to another line across the room. (When a train comes into the station, the clerks must serve only those who need tickets for those trains.)

After another extended wit, Mark reaches the window and explains our travel plans. People are watching him. Nearby a small, stout wrinkled woman wearing a bright, flowered headscarf, elbow the young man next to her. “What did that foreign man say,” whispers the babushka, in a loud stage whisper, “What language is he speaking anyway?”

“I think he said is speaking Russian,” answers the polite young soldier, “but I am not sure.”

Meanwhile Mark attempts a smile and wipes the sweat from his forehead. I fan myself with my passport. On this trip Mark has printed all the travel information on a piece of paper, so he can simply slip it under the screen to the attendant.

She taps information into a huge old computer. She shakes her head and picks up a phone. She hangs up and starts speaking in loud rapid-fire Russian.

The booth muffles the speech and the problem is compounded by the extraneous noise in the station. She repeats her tirade. Finally she opens the door and emerges from her cell.

By now everyone is listening, straining to hear over the sounds of the trains outside.

All eyes are on us when we finally understand that no tickets are available on the day we wish to travel. Mark tries to ask about the following day, but the tired attendant refuses to negotiate. The soldier in line behind us suggests we speak to the station supervisor. The attendant scalds him with a barrage of Russian and they continue to talk loudly and quickly.

“What is happening?” says the curious Babushka. So we are not the only ones puzzled by the turn of events.

After more discussion, it becomes clear that we are not going to get tickets.

This is not unusual, just frustrating.

Many times the task of buying train tickets becomes a challenge. PCVs serving here in Ukraine all have tales to tell about buying tickets. The stories make us laugh, but when the event is happening, it is harder to find them humorous.

We have come to understand that buying tickets in this country is a strange and magical event – it is not a simple process in any case. It is a puzzle for even the locals. For us, it is compounded by the language and cultural expectations. The act of going to the train station to get tickets is approached with trepidation.

Mark has gone to the train station alone today.

NOTE: A recent plane crash and a separate politically motivated munitions factory explosion are adding to transportation challenges currently. During the summer season, travel in and out of Crimea is always a challenge. There is virtually no airline service available in Crimea, particularly on this end of the peninsula. If I were an investor, I would explore opportunities for air transportation in and out of beautiful Kerch by the sea…rich foreigners would do a lot for the local economy and tourist opportunities here have not yet been tapped. Most tourists here are from Russia.

· Friday, 25 August 2006

I feel like the dragon slayer in a fairytale film…

As I swing my sword to fight off the attacker on one side, another is at my heels!

This week Mark and I seem to be standing back to back, wielding our sword and doing battle.

Maybe we just need to drop the swords and hug each other!

An oft-repeated PCV phrase around the world: “It’s a good day when you accomplish one thing.”

Setting our sights low? No, life is just different here. The advice means: be reasonable, be realistic, see with the eyes of a local rather than a corporate American worker.

Often the local rhythms and the ways of doing things can become road blocks if you are a typical (or even an atypical) American! Even mellow, laid-back people can find it frustrating to accomplish simple tasks in a foreign element.

Though we were not able to accomplish several tasks we set out to do, the day ended beautifully. In part, because we gave up the illusion of control and simply stated acknowledging the abundance.

Part of this learning curve is figuring how to trust that things will work out.

Our culture makes us rather goal oriented – checklists, purpose, agenda…heck, we even have a phrase about pursuing happiness! We can never relax and just let things happen.

The day ended well.

· Thursday, 24 August 2006 – Ukrainian Independence Day!

In Crimea, this is a holiday, but it is not exactly celebrated.

Crimea is still very Russian and it is the homeland for the Tatars so this holiday, which is very special in the heartland of Ukraine, is simply a good day to go to the beach here in Crimea.

School starts next week, so this holiday brackets the end of summer and provides a play-day to mark the passage into Fall. Many people will have a “bridge day” on Friday, making this a four day weekend.

On Wednesday, the library ladies decided to close early and start the holiday even earlier. Unfortunately we did not anticipate this so Mark found himself thrown out of the library at about 4 on Wednesday afternoon.

Most of the staff was long gone before that. The last lady to leave had the onerous job of informing the silly-foreigner that he had to leave so she could lock up. (I suspect she was pretty patient and probably could have left much earlier had she the courage to simply tell Mark to “Get out!”

In any case, I arrived at the library about 5, expecting to have English Club as usual. Mark emerged from the shade of the park across the street and met me at the door. “No English Club tonight.” He said.

Since there was no way to contact members and let them know the library was closed, we decided to simply wait on the library steps till 6 PM and meet with those members who arrived.

About 8 people arrived and we set off to a local outdoor café to sip tea and talk for an hour or so.

We spent our Thursday in front of the television. The state channel runs wonderful movies on holidays. Once Mark turned on the TV, I was lured into a wonderful version of a Gogol tale. We were glued to the set by the costumes and music – this particular tale had the feel of a Renaissance faire only set in a Ukrainian village – the peasants wore beautifully embroidered traditional costumes and there were dramatic Cossacks and gypsies and all kinds of delightful imagery.

This movie ended and then a classic film began.

During the commercials I baked and frosted a chocolate cake and Mark chopped up veggies and threw together a delicious meal. I sat on the couch with my knitting and soaked up several more films. There were 11 classic Ukrainian films aired back-to-back and we whiled away the day and the evening in front of the tube.

-----------EXTRACT FROM UKRAINIAN NEWS-----------

UKRAINE PUTS OFF SOME INDEPENDENCE DAY FESTIVITIES
       BECAUSE OF CRASH OF RUSSIAN AIRPLANE IN UKRAINE 
UNIAN news agency, Kiev, in Ukrainian 1347 gmt 23 Aug 06
BBC Monitoring Service, United Kingdom, Wednesday, Aug 23, 2006

KIEV - Only ceremonial events will take place in Kiev and other Ukrainian
cities on Independence Day on 24 August, Deputy Prime Minister Dmytro
Tabachnyk has told journalists.

"There will be no parade-ground concert by 35 military orchestras, it will
be held on Saturday (26 August - UNIAN). Also on Saturday, there will be a
big folk concert, which has been prepared by the organizing committee, and a
pop concert prepared by the Culture Ministry and the Family and Sport
Ministry. The fireworks will also be put off and will end the concert,"
Tabachnyk said.

Accordingly, fireworks, concerts and festive shows in other Ukrainian cities
will also be postponed from 24 to 26 August, Tabachnyk said. [Passage
omitted: more details of Independence Day celebrations]

Ukrainian President Viktor Yushchenko today signed a decree "The issue of
marking the 15th anniversary of Ukraine's independence", which moved some

of Independence Day festivities from 24 to 26 August.

The government appealed to central and local authorities to postpone
concerts and fireworks planned for 23-24 August due to the crash of a
Russian Tu-154 airliner in Donetsk Region [Ukraine]             -30-

170 DIE IN UKRAINE AS RUSSIAN PLANE IS STRUCK BY LIGHTING
     45 children killed in third major accident this year: Crash raises questions

        over 'flying cigar' "The big question is: how the hell did the pilot get in

                                          the middle of a thunderstorm?"

Tom Parfitt, Moscow, The Guardian,
London, United Kingdom, Wednesday, Aug 23, 2006

A Russian airliner that crashed in eastern Ukraine yesterday killing all 170
passengers and crew on board was probably struck by lightning as it
encountered heavy turbulence, a preliminary investigation suggested last
night.

The Tu-154 was flying from the Black Sea resort of Anapa to St Petersburg
when it went down in open countryside about 30 miles north of the city of
Donetsk. More than a quarter of the aircraft's passengers were children.

Russia's transport ministry said bad weather had probably caused the crash
on flight 612. "A report about heavy turbulence came at 15.37 Moscow time
from the aircraft, which was at an altitude of 11,000 metres, and then the
plane disappeared from radar screens," a spokesman told Interfax.

St Petersburg-based Pulkovo airlines told reporters that the crew issued a
second distress signal from a lower altitude but air traffic controllers
could not make out the sentence that followed.

Aviation experts said the aircraft could survive a lightning strike, but
flight instruments may have been knocked out, disorienting the pilot. The
crash was the third major aviation tragedy in Russia this year.

Witnesses said the plane plunged into the ground intact, suggesting there
had not been an explosion on board. A large bang was heard in the nearby
village of Sukha Balka followed by a series of smaller bangs.

At least 45 children were among the dead, according to the airline. Most
passengers were thought to be Russian holidaymakers from St Petersburg
returning home, although foreigners including at least one Dutch citizen
were reportedly among the dead.

Andrei Tyutyunikov, a reporter with local newspaper Donetskiye Novosti, who
arrived at the scene shortly after the crash, told the Guardian the aircraft
had been destroyed. He said: "It's just in pieces. I can see one large chunk
with the letters on it. Emergency officials are dragging fragments of bodies
from the wreckage. There's no one left alive."

Television pictures showed firefighters dousing blackened hillside covered
in de bris. Thirty bodies were recovered by late afternoon. Rescuers
prepared to comb the wreckage through the night but they did not expect to
find any survivors.

Irina Andrianova, a spokeswoman for the Russian emergency situations
ministry, said a preliminary investigation indicated a lightning strike had
caused the disaster.

A team of medics and psychologists was dispatched to Pulkovo airport in St
Petersburg to help distraught relatives waiting for the flight. The
Ukrainian president, Viktor Yushchenko, cut short a holiday in Crimea to
monitor the situation.

A 60-strong Russian emergency ministry team also flew from Rostov to help
the rescue and clean-up effort. Relatives of the dead will be flown to the
site today to identify bodies.

In July, a Sibir airlines Airbus A-310 crashed and burst into flames after
veering off the runway in Irkutsk, killing 122 people. That accident was
blamed on a malfunction in a thrust reverser. Two months earlier 113 people
died when an Airbus A-320 belonging to Armenian airline Armavia crashed on
its way from Yerevan to Sochi. The disaster was attributed to the pilot
flying through bad weather.

The Tu-154 is known as the "flying cigar" because of its long fuselage and
cramped cabin space. It is still one of the most commonly used planes in
Russia.

"So far this crash is a mystery because the Tupolev is robust and every
aircraft has a weather radar," said David Learmount of Flight International
magazine. "The big question is: how the hell did the pilot get in the middle
of a thunderstorm?"  (www.guardian.co.uk/russia)

· Wednesday, 23 August 2006

I am out of deodorant…

I am also on my last bottle of cologne. Of course there are deodorants and colognes here in Crimea, but not the kind I prefer. (Ban GEL and Avon’s Candid cologne)

Part of the adventure is to try new things, but there is a need, at times for our own comforts and routines. This is when people who never touch peanut butter in the USA, suddenly have an urge for a PB&J, etc.

We have adapted to things Ukrainian pretty well. I have no real longing for any particular thing from the USA. Yes, I have occasional bouts of homesickness – missing people and sometimes things, but being flexible and adapting is essential to getting along here..

Yesterday I was in a funk and I spent about an hour listing stuff I would like to do and things I miss – I haven’t driven a car since February 2005! It would be great to hop in the car, crank up the AC and the stereo and head on down the highway to a shopping area for a little retail therapy.

In my head I made a trip to Target (black jeans and a couple t-shirts and some sandals) followed by a stop at AC Moore for about 8 balls of thick knitting yarn. Next a stop at a huuuuuuge book store for some good reading and a cup of latte. Dinner at “Outback Steakhouse” - …then maybe a movie or a stop at a rental place. Oh, too bad I ate already cuz take out Chinese or pizza would be wonderful with the movies…

OK, I am back now…in less than a year I will be stateside and will have my consumer-fix!

Now, I have to walk over to the library. One of the things that sometimes challenges people serving here is the feeling of being in the spotlight. Of course, there is an element of paranoia to that feeling, but it is also true that people know who we are here. They see the “American” and not me. The feeling of being on display can be challenging. (It would be worse in a country where the physical differences are more obvious.) Here, I can “pass” as a local. Sometimes. But not here in our own community – no, here the people know about us, whether they let on or not.

My “funk” is also fueled by feeling lonely. I like to hear from friends and family and though I know rationally that they do a great job of keeping in touch (most of them anyway!), I get a little testy now and then. Yes, I tell myself, they have busy, full lives…soon they will write. I consider confrontational actions and then decide to take the high road…I pray, I sing, I count my blessings, I cultivate patience and humility… Then I whine to myself a bit more, feel sorry for myself, miss Mom…and so it goes…

There is a third component to this slump. My role here is very ambiguous. This is OK, most of the time. Since I am not an official PCV, I can pick and choose what I do. This is wonderful, but it also means I do not have regular contact with people or a workplace relationship to carry me through the tough times when I am so aware how cut-off my life is. Of course, my wonderful spouse shares his adventures with me, drawing me into his projects and making me feel useful and included too and I do have legitimate projects of my own to wrangle.

Well, thank goodness for technology and good friends and family. I usually can count on some personal e-mail each day and one dear friend frequently sends me clippings and comics via snail-mail so my trips to the mail box provide an occasional lift.

They say if you smile, you will actually start to feel better. It is time for me to give it a try! I’ll splash on some Candid first.

“Look, there goes that pleasant American woman…Americans sure smile a lot!”

E-Mail Extract …

…The whole being in the public eye thing is odd isn't it?  …People have opinions and attitudes about the stars and how they should behave.  Sometimes being a foreigner in a strange land has the same feel....everyone knows about you and they discuss your decisions and choices and habits. There are days when you want to blend in... Even in Greenwood, SC there were times when we felt the sense of being observed and discussed - outsiders)  I used to feel this on AFBs at times. When I was TDY (temporary duty) at a location, I  would become aware that I was the only woman and then even going to dinner on base became more challenging.  Imagine what it is like for PCVs in countries where they really do not resemble the locals...ie: my blue-eyed brother in Malawi...  Having a degree of anonymity is nice at times.   I call it "reluctant-ambassador syndrome"...Ginn

_______________________________________

NOTE: I found this in the weekly CS lesson…very helpful when we feel foreign and strange….

Ephesians 2:19–21

19 Now therefore ye are no more strangers and foreigners, but

fellow-citizens with the saints, and of the household of God;

20 And are built upon the foundation of the apostles and

prophets, Jesus Christ himself being the chief corner stone;

21 In whom all the building fitly framed together groweth unto

an holy temple in the Lord:

· Tuesday, 22 August 2006

A thunder storm moved in quickly.

This is the first rain since early spring. A sign of September and autumn I think.

I moved my parakeets from their usual place on the windowsill and observed people scurrying for cover. Across the street, a large while cat huddled at the base of a tall tree. When the rain began pounding down, the cat meowed mournfully, circling the tree,

The smell of rain on ht pavement held my attention as I lingered by the window. After so many hot, humid days, the cooling storm breezes felt welcome.

I turned from the living room window and on the opposite side of the flat I saw a cat-shaped shadow on the windowsill in the kitchen. I strode over to the window and looked down into the questioning eyes of my favorite courtyard cats. Dusty huddled there, shivering.

“No fella, I am sorry, but you cannot come in.” I said to him in a calm voice. Dusty took a step forward and I repeated myself, “No Dusty. You may stay on the window sill till the shower is over, but you cannot come inside.

He is a good cat, and part of me wanted to welcome him into the kitchen with a dry towel to soak up the water puddling around his feet. He hunkered down next to my tomato plant, geranium and the chinook we use to boil water. Dusty seemed to understand.

I sat at the kitchen table watching Dusty and waiting for the storm to subside. I knit a few rows, breathing in the sweet smell of rain and thinking about cats.

In about ten minutes the shower abated and my well-behaved, tiger-striped guest stood, stretched languorously before jumping down into the garden and then disappeared under the thick berry brambles outside.

Oh how easy it would be to make him a pet, but I wisely think he will be better off to remain simply a friend.

· Monday, 21 August 2006

The Thrill of an Oprah Magazine…

What a thrill to open the mailbox and find something in it.

Yesterday a thick, padded airmail envelope arrived – our so-very-thoughtful house sitter splurged and airmailed us the June and July copy of Oprah Magazine (Yikes, Jim! Postage was $25! Media Mail rate from the USA is slower, but is only $1 a pound!)!

I did a little happy dance. I love to get mail.

I love that my friend Jim is so thoughtful!

I love my Oprah Magazines too!

This is one of life’s simple pleasures, but often our mailbox here in Ukraine is empty.

In fact, our visits to the post office are usually about mailing things, rather than receiving mail. We rather randomly, but regularly, send small items, just tokens really, back to friends and family in the USA. We mailed some Ukrainian flag stickers to friends a while back. It was fun to imagine them putting them on their cars and having Americans ask them about their stickers. We have sent magazines (Cosmo in Ukrainian is entertaining!) and chocolate bars, coffee and napkins, greeting cards and calendars. We sent some doggie and cat snacks to our pet sitter…it seems funny to see the Russian and Ukrainian writing on familiar products. At Easter, we sent egg dye – the famous traditional Ukrainian Pysanky (tediously detailed decorated eggs) can be replicated in just minutes with shrink-wrapped versions available at the bazaar!

We once sent some loose tea and the recipient thought it was potpourri!

I would love to send more stuff – I really want to share some of the everyday life we lead here in Ukraine. But, it is expensive to mail things from here, so we limit our cross-cultural gifts to lightweight things. Still, the postage cost alone on most things we mail is more than what a typical Ukrainian (or a PCV) earns per day. Many times the cost of mailing a package is as much as the average Ukrainian makes per week! (The official national average per month for June is up to $200 a month which is what we try to live on too.) I hate to actually mail a package when there are other people in the post office, because inevitably when the cost is announced, heads snap and people stare at the “rich” Americans.

I suspect we may be the topic of dinner conversation at times.

Oh, and did I mention, you cannot just wrap a box at home and take it to the PO to mail it? Noooo, they must look inside and examine what you are sending. Once they are satisfied the contents is safe and legal, THEY seal it up. It becomes a challenge to pack things safely or logically – bubblewrap, Styrofoam, shredded newspaper…no such stuff! No, they will just put stuff in a big box and seal it up…not acceptable by the US Postal Service.

Back in the USA, I also eagerly anticipate the daily mail. That moment when I reach for the daily mail seem almost magical.

I miss my Mom’s faithful and delightful letters, but back in the USA, I still get mail everyday, even though Mom’s letters are history. I always had lots of magazine subscriptions and catalogs coming in. My brother in Malawi was (is) a regular correspondent and there were occasional letters from other folks too. There were birthday, anniversary, and holiday cards too. There were (are) often post cards from my mother-in-law. Sometimes packages would arrive too and as Internet shopping became easier, more packages made their way to our doorstep via US Mail. (Amazon.com…my favorite bookstore!) And there were bills and statements too. Of course some days, the bright red mailbox on South Mail St was filled with junk mail – flyers and leaflets advertising local businesses. I read them as I walked toward the “circular file” by my desk.

While our mail box here in Ukraine is often empty, I am grateful when I find something in it.

Today, I will curl up with some coffee and sit by the fan and read my Oprah Magazines cover-to-cover and think grateful thoughts about my thoughtful friend!

Thanks Jim!

· Saturday, 19 August 2006

This Babba’s Opinion on the Revised Babba’s Cookbook…

I guess I am disappointed and it is compounded because I have no where to vent my feelings.

Last Fall, my spouse and I submitted some recipes to Babba’s Cookbook, a fun collection of recipes garnered from Peace Corps Volunteers serving here in Ukraine.

Isolated from things American and from fast food and restaurants, PCVs must learn to survive. For many PCVs this is the first time they have had to cook. The whole idea can seem pretty intimidating and the original Babba’s Cookbook was a helpful tool for even the most inept cook.

Ukraine has wonderful produce available and one can eat like a king or a queen with a little practice and planning. One of the earlier training groups realized that many PCVs have never really prepared food from scratch. They also knew that trainees were interested in leaning the basics of preparing good food. So they collaborated, collected recipes and put together a cook book which many PCVs had a stake in. Not only were the recipes”tested” by trainees, there was personal commentary that made the recipes even more appealing.

The earlier versions of Babba’s Cookbook were not a sophisticated collection of recipes and clearly not a text book nor a gourmet cook book, but one that encouraged others to give cooking a try. It was an enjoyable collection of offerings and commentary shared by people far from home and eager to help each other survive.

Tonight I read through the revised version of the cook book.

All the life has gone out of it. It is sterile reading –just straightforward instructions. For a non-cook it may even be intimidating.

No appealing notes or recommendations or humor – just dry processes.

Why, you could buy such a cook book from a stranger! Someone obviously confused efficiency and effectiveness (I hate when that happens!).

The very things that made the old cookbook worth having and using are gone!

Not only are the personal notes omitted, the individual contributors are no longer even acknowledged. Half the fun of the cook book was in knowing who submitted the recipe and where they got it from.

The recipes have also been edited.

Yep, someone decided to make changes to the recipes submitted. My spouses’ excellent Sweet and Sour Pork Recipe has been watered down with changes including the addition or soy sauce and flour…My Mother’s special chocolate cake recipe appears with changes to the ingredients. We family has used that recipe for about 80 years…. My own Russian Vegetable Pie recipe suddenly has carrots added to it….sigh

I wonder if the person who edited our recipes ever even cooked them.

While these changes to recipes may not seem significant, it is almost as if the editor is saying, “Oh, what do these people know, let’s jazz this up a bit…” I guess I am glad my name is not associated with the actual recipes printed since they are not longer mine. I shared them, thinking that my Mother’s cake recipe would be honored.

I guess maybe our recipes were just not good enough.

I wonder how many others feel that way.

For me, the spirit of the cookbook is gone.

Of course there are probably good recipes in it, but hey, I can find good recipes, or better, on the Internet.

The original cookbook was a success because it was a collaboration and used PCVs actual experiences.

In my opinion, this new Babba’s Cookbook may just collect dust.

This cookbook should be more bout people and not about the food…but, this is just one Babba’s opinion…

The Original Chocolate Cake Recipe……

Here’s My Mom’s Chocolate Cake Recipe (as originally submitted). I baked it for Ukrainian friends and they lovvvvvvvved it! Try a chocolate butter cream frosting on it and use REAL butter! I will include it below too!

f MOM’S CHOCOLATE CAKE e

1 c. sugar

2 c. flour

4 heaping T. cocoa

1 c. mayonnaise (Miracle Whip)

1 c. hot water

2 tsp. baking soda

1 tsp. vanilla

Sift together flour, sugar and cocoa into bowl. Dissolve baking soda in hot (not boiling) water and then add salad dressing. Add vanilla. Beat until smooth and creamy. Pour into 9 x 12 inch pan (or two 8” layer pans) and bake at 350 degrees for 30 minutes. Cake is done when you can insert a knife in the center and it comes out clean. Very delicious served warm.

Serves: 6-8

Preparation Time: 10 minutes plus baking time

e EASY FROSTING! f

T

his frosting is part of any cake baker’s repertoire. It is quick and easy and you can improvise on it with excellent results. It tastes rich and creamy on a classic chocolate cake (like my Mother’s mayonnaise cake) or on brownies. When we were kids, we often mixed up a batch and spread it on graham crackers for a quick and satisfying treat.

You can modify the consistency of the icing by adding more milk or using less milk. You can also play with how much butter you want to use or how much sugar or cocoa you prefer. You can even leave out the cocoa and have a white icing. Or throw in some coconut for fun!

This is a good first-time cook recipe to try with young children.

e CHOCOLATE BUTTER-CREAM FROSTING f

1 - 2 c. powdered sugar

¼ - ½ lb softened butter

2 - 4 T milk

¼ - 2/3 c cocoa powder

1 – 2 T vanilla

Use a fork to combine cocoa, powdered sugar, and butter into a smooth paste. Add a few drops of milk and mix. Continue adding milk until icing is suited for spreading. Stir in vanilla. Add more powdered sugar or cocoa to thicken frosting if you add too much milk.

Serves: 9 X 12 cake

Preparation Time: 10 minutes

Another Recipe…

e RUSSIAN VEGETABLE PIE f

A MEATLESS MAIN DISH DELIGHT

I

did not invent this recipe. I found it long ago in a cookbook whose name I have since forgotten, but the recipe, yes, I remember it well! It was very popular with my children when they were young and hungry! We would gather in the kitchen and chop and cook and talk as we prepared this meal.

Over the years I have taken minor liberties with the recipe. I cannot consult the original because it is scribbled on a food-stained note card in my mother’s old golden-oak recipe file at my house back in South Carolina waiting for our return from Eastern Europe. You will see that it is easy to prepare this dish and you can improvise on the theme quite easily. It is a dish that is very appropriate to Ukraine since it uses locally available produce.

This hearty main dish is very tasty and will fool most people into thinking they are dining on a meat pie, when in fact, it is vegetarian fare. I make it because it tastes good and it warms the kitchen on cold, blustery days. Even skeptics will be won over by this dish!

Step 1: Read through Recipe & Assemble Ingredients:

Note: you will have to boil eggs and prepare pie crusts ahead of time

Pie Crust (top & bottom) - Use your own recipe, but if you have cream cheese, use it in the dough too – it is goooood!

Ingredients:

Hard Boiled Eggs X 4-6 – Have them cool and peeled when you start…why not boil a few extra just to snack on!

Fresh Sliced Mushrooms X 2 Cups – Be generous with these!

Chopped Onions X 1 1/2 Cups – Biiiiig onion…you can’t have too many!

Shredded or chopped Cabbage X 3 Cups or so

Softened Cream Cheese X 6-8 Ounces – You could substitute stiff sour cream or a fresh cheese like Tvorog (sp ?)

Dill, Salt, & Pepper to taste

Oil for Stir Frying – If you are brave and have a healthy heart use butter otherwise use some low fat oil.

Step 1: Stir Fry Veggies.

Use salt and pepper throughout this process. First stir fry onions in oil at a medium temperature. When they are soft and transparent, remove them from the pan. Add shredded cabbage to the same pan and stir fry until the cabbage is soft. Remove cabbage from pan and now add mushrooms and stir fry them briefly.

Now, preheat the oven to about 400 degrees and begin assembling the pie.

Step 2: Assemble the Pie.

Place the bottom pie crust in a deep pie tin and cover crust with thick layer of cream cheese (or suitable substitute – be creative). Place slices of egg on the cream cheese base (you could just chop them and scatter them on the cream cheese base). Salt and pepper and add some dill, lots of dill. Add extra dill. Dill is good! Now add a layer of mushrooms, next a layer of cabbage and a layer of onions. Alternate layers till all ingredients are used up. The recipe says to make the mushrooms the top layer, but you are the cook here! You will have a big mound rising above the pie plate several inches – it will cook down a bit. You may want to salt and pepper the veggies again, one last time.

Now place the top crust on the big mound of cooked veggies. Crimp the edges of the pie shells together so nothing leaks out. Don’t cut off the extra dough, just fold it under. I enjoy making a decorative design when I crimp the edges, but this is simply an artistic deviation rather than a matter of taste! You will want to put about two or three slashes in the middle area of the top crust to allow steam to escape.

Step 3: Bake!

You can put it in the oven now and let it cook for about 45 minutes to an hour. Do the dishes and then pour yourself some wine and read a few chapters of a Russian novel while you wait. Make a salad and set the table too. When the crust is a golden brown it is ready to come out of the oven. Don’t let the bottom burn! Let the pie sit for about ten minutes before you attempt to cut and serve.

I think you will like this one dish meal! And next time, you can add your own variations.

Serves: 4-6 People Preparation Time: About Sixty Minutes

· Friday, 18 September 2006

No one is as capable of gratitude as one who has emerged

from the kingdom of night.

- Elie Wiesel

As I read through some Christian Science literature this morning I was reminded several times of our English Club conversation this week. The CS lesson this week is “Mind” and the English Club topic was “What do YOU want to be when you grow up?”

During the oppressive August heat, most activities here in Kerch close down. Without air conditioning, many activities come to a halt, resuming only when the weather becomes temperate again. (Here in Ukraine, we live closer to the weather than in say the USA, where you can actually be uncomfortably cold in stores and public buildings during summer months…try explaining that to locals!) So, I was surprised when fifteen sweaty, enthusiastic people showed up at the library on this hot, humid August evening.

Most of these die-hard members are 20-something types so discussing what you want to do when you grow up was a good topic. They began with predictable talk about goal setting – making strategic plans, considering security, considering your life as an investment, etc. Money and material things are big considerations, particularly among people who have faced hard times (Ukrainians have had a shaky history and economy at best so security has never been much of a reality),so this conversational trend is to be expected. I listened, coaxing conversation from the more reticent members and biting my tongue to allow others to share their opinions.

The conversation moved on to consider the more esoteric side of the topic. It might be summed up by saying they conversed about whether work and life choices should be based on human logic or on love. My ears perked up as I listened to my Russian-speaking companions struggle to articulate their thoughts on this topic in English. (I am constantly amazed, impressed at the extent of their English vocabularies – it can be humbling actually.) This rather unexpected turn in the conversation pleased me.

As a person who studied psychology and organizational management, I have often been encouraged to adopt systems of prioritizing information in order to make a decision (from Ben Franklin’s pros and cons to Covey’s 7 Habits and many other more academic and sophisticated approaches). I have experimented with these ideas and read extensively on them. What I have learned is this: In decision–making, as in love, you must listen for that still, small voice, that inspiration, that angel thought that makes you smile. Just as you know when you are in love, you know when the decision is right. And the challenge often comes when the decision defies human logic.

Fear drives people back to that human logic. We attempt to rationalize, objectify, justify, and sometimes as a consequence, we pursue a course that looks good on paper. (An opportunity missed!)

The best course is one you can put your heart into.

Yes, you may be afraid, but listen to the joy and let it guide you. Let it keep you buoyant. Ride the wave of it like a surfer.

I think that spark of joy, is Divine Inspiration. We are offered joy and we often choose drudgery because we look at the human picture rather than the divine. Feel the joy, commit to it – trust that spirit…

So I listened happily as my English Club members opened up and spoke. Experiences of Holocaust and Holodomor came up – how people guide their lives listening to the voice of joy inside of them. Fifteen people were engaged, thinking, sharing. “What do YOU want to be when you grow up?” - I heard the words joyful and grateful. The word abundance came up. We spoke of relying on inspiration versus intellect.

When our ninety minutes was over, we stepped out into the courtyard and welcomed the cool, evening sea breezes, but I was oblivious to them. I was still wrapped up in my thoughts about the level of conversation and sharing that went on tonight.

I was thinking about how grateful I am that I listened to the small voice that said, follow that Peace Corps dream…life is good.

· Thursday, 17 August 2006

My husband’s flip-flops are five years old this month!

He paid about 80 cents for these ordinary black rubber flip-flops at a rural market in northern Malawi and happily wore them trekking through the mountains. He has been wearing them pretty much everyday since then too.

The impulse to trade boots for flip-flops was the result of experience and observation. The local people walked through the mountain terrain effortlessly and most of them were barefoot. Many wore flip-flops. One trip up the mountain in sturdy leather boots left Mark with sore feet and a twisted ankle. I have photos of him soaking sore tootsies in mountain streams.

Human logic (at least to many of my fellow Americans) would say that practical leather boots would be the right gear to have on such a trip. Sometimes we must look beyond our own experiences and opinions. (We must look for inspiration rather than to intellect!)

Those flip flops have many, many miles on them n